Three short of a hundred triangular white sails dot the horizon as far as the eye can see. It is seconds after 7.30am, and the orange flare signifying the start of the 17th Sir Bu Naair Traditional Dhow Sailing Race has just been sighted, pale against an already bright sky. In the coming hours, 96 UAE and one lone Qatari crew put their strength and wits to the test against the elements of nature for one of the most prestigious sailing championships in the region.
When the 97 sailing dhows set out across the high seas for Dubai on Saturday, they recreated one of the epic journeys of the region's past. The 54-nautical mile voyage from Sir Bu Naair to Mina Seyahi may have been small compared to those undertaken by the great explorers of the last centuries, but was no less thrilling in its unpredictability, novelty and sense of discovery. Here was modern man, forsaking the technology and convenience of the present day for the simplicity and hardship of the past. Here was modern man learning to once more harness the awesome power of nature, riding the winds to safety and renown.
For centuries, the Al Qaffal or "journey home" marked the end of the pearl diving season that extended from September to May every year. The divers gathered in Sir Bu Naair island at the end of every season to not only rest from the months of strenuous activity but to also clean and arrange their pearls for display back in Dubai. After the crews were ready, they would wait for a signal from the lead boat or Sardal to commence the journey home.
Seventeen years ago, the Sir Bu Naair race was created by Sheikh Hamdan bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Deputy Ruler of Dubai and UAE Minister for Finance and Industry, to preserve this dying tradition. Participation in the race has risen every year since then, drawing competitors from around the seven emirates and around the GCC. Although much has changed since the pearling days – oil replaced pearls as the cornerstone of trade, affordable powerboats replaced the heavy sailing dhows and Dubai and its youth strode boldly into the future – much remains the same.

The dhows themselves, for example, are built the same way they have been for hundreds of years, down to the teak wood for the hull and the dimensions of the mainsail. The need for experience, expertise and an uncommon understanding of the sea also remains. At a time most people would be having breakfast, the sea seemed to be speaking softly, welcoming the participants to its domain and giving them enough down time to contemplate its might and mystery. Because traditional dhows do not use motors, they are entirely dependent on the elements – wind and water – for their progress. A robust wind and relatively calm sea are ideal conditions, but these too need to be properly harnessed for boats to reach their full potential.
The sails, angled at more than 45 degrees to the wind to harness the most energy, can pull in too much wind – which could break the mast or otherwise imperil the boat. Monitoring the sails is an encompassing task, especially since wind can change from minute to minute and from one area to the next.
The nature of an open seas race makes the task that much more difficult – dhows at one end of the start line may face an entirely different draft from boats in the middle or at the other end. That is where technique and expertise comes in – choosing where to position your boat, what route to take, how to manipulate your boat to the changing winds and still come out ahead.
It seemed as though the boats on the inside track – on a straight bearing to Mina Seyahi – had the right idea. Those on the outside, looking like low-lying triangular clouds, seemed like they would take a long and circuitous route to reach the shore. There are dangers associated with too strong winds – because the sails are angled, too much wind in one direction could cause the Dh400,000-dhows to topple. To maintain the right balance, much of the crew tie themselves to support ropes and add their weight to the ballast.
The first of the dhows to arrive at the finish line made this emotional journey in 4hrs and 45 minutes and it was a momentous occasion for the crew. Leading with almost a kilometre lead the dhow arrived at Mina Seyahi much to the jubilation and support of foreign nationals at the breakwaters of Mina Seyahi. The homecoming of the winning teams is a spectacle to behold. They were greeted with the traditional folk dance (rakas al shaabi) and the awards were presented by Major General Saif Al Shaffar and organiser Colonel Saeed Hareb.
From the start of the race Atlas skippered by Mohammed Majid Al Room and Ahmed Rashid Al Suwaidi, put their plan and strategy in place to stay in the lead. Ghazi who has had a great season emerged second shortly after the lead boat crossed the finish line at 12.15 pm. Al Zeer of yesteryears fame skippered by Mohamed Rashid Bin Shaheen was third to cross the finish. Mohammed Majid Al Room, struggling to come to grips with the emotions of getting to the podium said: "I thank God for giving me, and my crew, the strength and wisdom to manoeuvre through this race in such conditions”. “This race has taught us an experience we will never forget. It takes us back to the time when our grandparents and great grandparents went out to sea and came back and described their journey, which we never understood. Today we can understand it better as we have experienced it," he added. "We are grateful to them and the organisers for giving us the opportunity to experience Al Qaffal (the journey back home)", echoed Ahmed Rashid Al Suwaidi.
"This year's race was a test of the skills and endurance - to complete a race with winds of 10-12 knots," said Saeed Hareb, Managing Director, DIMC. "The conditions were not so difficult but those who have been tried and tested before remained the victors". Al Zeer fought hard to get to the top but was content with its third place. Competition was at its peak between Ghazi, Al Zeer, Al Qaffay and Azzam. This fierce competition saw Ghazi gain a several-mile lead to finish second at the podium. Local knowledge and a keen ability to read the waves and wind shifts are crucial to success. After the prize-giving ceremony, Saeed Hareb said, "Today’s race is one of the first I have seen in seventeen years that finished so early. The winds were in our favour and the sea being calm was another added advantage”. “I wish to thank Sheikh Hamdan for conceiving this race and supporting it all through these 17 years, more especially for his generosity in raising the prize money to AED 6 million. The competing teams that have stood for the traditions of this race and coming back year after year shows their enthusiasm and support of their culture", Saeed added. He also thanked the skippers and the crew who faithfully take part in their traditional race year after year in full enthusiasm. Saeed welcomed the entry of Al Wajba, the first dhow from a GCC country to take part for the second consecutive year. Al Wajba is from Qatar and Saeed said, “I hope that in the future other countries too take the example of this Qatari team and join in the race, so that it gets more competitive and the cultures and traditional values are shared and understood by the youth of the region”.
Understanding the Sir Bu Naair races is equal to understanding a seaman who has had either a great time at sea or a rough one, no matter which side the wind blows, no matter if the weather is rough or not and no matter if his business has been profitable or not, a seaman never looks back with remorse or anger. For him, it is one more adventure he will cherish in the years to come. The Sir Bu Naair race marks the end of a hectic racing season in the DIMC calendar. All competitors look forward to this annual traditional event with the entire true and rich heritage it carries.
Results
1. Atlas – 400 points; 2. Ghazi – 300 points; 3. Al Zeer – 225 points; 4. Al Qaffay – 169 points; 5. Azzam – 127 points; 6. Al Wasl – 95 points; 7. Shemardal – 71 points; 8. Al Adeed – 53 points; 9. Wahdawi – 40 points; 10. Nashwan – 30 points.
More Information:
Patrick Francis, Press Officer, DIMC
P.O.Box 24883, Dubai, UAE
Contact: +971 4 399 5777
web: http://dimc-uae.com
mail: pressofficerdimc@gmail.com